LONG ISLAND CITY — The Baroness beckons from across the East River, tempting only the most faithful of burger followers into the wilds of Queens.
The experience proved worth the trek when a three-member contingent of the New York City Burger Club convened at the Crescent Street restaurant for the September 2016 gathering. President Comisar called the meeting to order with beer, certain cans of which can be had for $4 during happy hour.
The burger selection is extensive, spanning 14 different options all named after women seemingly from the 19th century Western frontier. The Trixie ($15) came topped with goat cheese (creamy, as advertised) and a sweet and spicy pepper slaw. The meat was deliciously cooked, the buns did not yield to sogginess.
One of the Baroness’ many bizarre quirks is that it does not offer french fries. Instead you chose from several sides, included in the price of the burger, that range from mac-and-cheese to carrot-cucumber-celery slaw. The bourbon baked beans were sweetly satisfying.
There is also the option to add sides at additional price, such as bacon for $1.50 or sautéed onions for $1. At the end of the list is the option to add a bottle of champagne for $70, which was not on the agenda for this particular Burger Club meeting.
The atmosphere of the Baroness is difficult to describe, because it combines high-end, Western-themed burgers with sabrage. Our membership did not observe any swords in use on this particular trip. Our waiter, however, was friendly and attentive.
Although a bit pricey for a Queens burger joint, The Baroness did not disappoint.